Brought to you by, your source
for quality replacement parts and the best service on the Internet. Hi, I’m Don from 1A Auto. I hope this how-to
video helps you out, and next time you need parts for your vehicle, think of
Thanks. In this video, we’re going to show you how
to replace the timing belt on this 2002 Volvo V70 with the 2.4 liter non-turbo engine. The
items you’ll need for this are a new timing belt kit from, 10, 12, 14, 19,
and 30mm sockets and a ratchet with an extension, T30 Torx bit, 6mm Allen wrench, flat blade
screwdriver, wire cutters, locking pliers, jack and jack stands and a torque wrench. You want to start off by removing these two
T30 Torx bolts. We’ll just fast forward as Don does that. Now flip up the clip on this
side and the clip over here on this side, and pull that shield off. Use your wire cutters
to clip the wire tie. Then using a flat blade screwdriver, pry up your power steering bottle
and pull the hose out of that clip and set the bottle aside. Your serpentine belt tensioner
is right here. Using a 14mm socket and ratchet, just push towards the front of the car and
this will release tension on that belt and you can pull it off. Carefully release the
tensioner and pull the belt off the rest of the way. Next, you want to remove this 10mm bolt right
in here. Now pull this cover up and out. Now using a 19mm socket and ratchet, you want
to loosen up your lug nuts and if you don’t have air powered tools, you want to loosen
them while they’re on the ground, raise the vehicle, remove them the rest of the way and
pull your wheel off. Next, remove these two 10mm bolts inside the
inner fender. Then, remove this panel. Now pull this panel back and using a pair of locking
pliers just clamp it right here. Now you want to remove these two 10mm bolts right here
and we use a 10mm wrench for this. Once those are removed, you can pull this panel down
and out. All right, the next step in this repair is
going to be to set our timing marks. Now there are marks on each one of these cams, the intake
and the exhaust cam as well as the crank shaft down there. You can see the crank pulley.
This is how we’re going to do it. We’re going to put our cam cover back on and you see it’s
got two notches here. Install it fully, back into the clips on each side. Now what we’re
going to do is we’re going to go down with a 30mm socket and ratchet on the crack pulley
down there. You see the nut. We’re going to go through the wheel well where we just took
the wheel off. What we’re going to do is we’re going to turn it until the marks that are
very subtle here on the cam, there and over here, line up with the corresponding notches
in this cover. That’s important but it’s also important that the crank shaft notch –
it has a notch and teeth lines up with a tooth – the tooth lines up with a post on
the side of the engine block. If you come from over here, you can just about make it.
We’ll get an up close shot for you as we turn it. I’m going to go ahead now with my 30mm
ratchet and socket and turn it until I get those marks to line up but before I do that
I’m going to use just a marker or a red marker and make those a little bit more visible. All right so here’s the setup I’m using. Go
in on the crank pulley and I’ll turn clockwise, this slowly and you can see those marks starting
to come up. We’re getting there. Now what we’re going to do is focus our attention
down on the crank. It’s really tough to see the mark, I’m going to try and point it out.
On two of the teeth on your crank, you’ll see these two notches that we have circled
right here, and you want to locate those and then line them up so that this post that comes
down is directly in between those two notches. When you’re done, it should look something
like this. All right, the next stage of the repair is
to take the belt off and in order to do that we have to loosen up on the tensioner. There’s
three different points of tension that we’re going to set it to when we go to put the new
tensioner in and we’re going to use a 6mm Allen key on this elliptical here. This is
very crucial that we get this right and this is temperature sensitive. Our vehicle’s been
running for a while now; it’s in the hot. If it was cold, you’d want to set your tensioner
here, right here. We’ll go through this later as we do this. This is warm and this is hot.
This is the way that we’re going to set it when we go to put the new one in but I’m just
showing you now because we have to slacken off the one that we have in the car and you’ll
see here that ours is indeed in the hot position, the furthest to the right tab, there. If we
do this repair in reasonable amount of time, it’s probably still going to be hot and that’s
what we’re going to go ahead and set our new tensioner. For right now, we’re going to loosen up on
the 10mm that goes through the tensioner and then we’re going to use our Allen key to slacken
it off. You only want to loosen this bolt a couple of turns. Now using a 6mm Allen wrench,
just loosen that up by turning it all the way to the front of the vehicle. Now you can
just remove this cover again and pull your timing belt off. Once you’ve got the majority
of the belt off, you can remove your tensioner. Just remove that bolt the rest of the way
and pull the tensioner up and out. Now, pull the timing belt down through the wheel well
and, using your wire cutters, just clip the belt and pull it out the rest of the way. Next you want to remove this pulley and it’s
held in with two 12mm bolts. We’ll fast forward as Don removes those. Now just pull that pulley
up and out. On the left are the old timing belt, tensioner,
and idler pulley. On the right are the new ones from our timing belt kit and you can
see they’re identical and they’re going to fit exactly the same. Replace the idler pulley
and tighten up those two 12mm bolts. We’re going to go back in with the tensioner,
the new one here, and it’s important to seat it correctly. You can see this tab and this
tab. These are going to go on either side of this casting right here. Put the tensioner
back into place and tighten that bolt, and really you’re just tightening it preliminarily,
you don’t want it too tight so it can still move. Now, feed your timing belt back up and around
the crank pulley. We’ve got the belt on the crank pulley and what we’re going to do is
we’re going to wedge a screwdriver in between the belt and the post that comes out on the
block so that the belt doesn’t move or skip. This is just for purposes of installing the
belt. You’ve got to find the spot. Now it’s up in there, so now the belt won’t
skip on the teeth while we set it up on the pulleys up above. Now put the belt around
the rest of the pulleys. Now replace the cover so that you have the notches as a reference
point. You want to make sure that this line lines up with the notches as it did before.
Now, we’re going to go ahead and tighten or tension up the belt tensioner and lock it
up into place. We’re using that 6mm Allen and the 12mm socket. Go ahead and put it in
there, in the slot and the engine at this point is warm. It’s was hot before, so we’re
going to tension it to warm, which is right there in the middle. Once you’ve got it where
you need it, go down with your 12mm socket and tighten up on that stud on the bolt. Just
a quick reminder, here is the cold setting then there’s cold, warm and hot. Remove the
screwdriver. All right, at this point, now, we’re going
to use our crank turning setup here with the 30mm breaker bar and what we’re going to do
is give it one full revolution, check our cam marks, crank mark and our tensioner. Once you’ve checked it and made sure that
all the marks like up, you can replace this panel. Then replace those two 10mm bolts that
hold it into place. Now push this panel back down and replace that other panel and those
two 10mm bolts. Fast forward as Don replaces the wheel and
those 19mm lug nuts and you want to tighten them preliminarily and lower the vehicle and
tighten them the rest of the way and torque each of these lug nuts in a crossing pattern
to 100 foot-pounds. Now, replace this cover and you just want
these two tabs to go down into these two slots. Lower the cover down into place and it helps
if you push this cover back. Now, put the top cover back into place. Then replace that
10mm bolt on the side there. Now, when you go to put your serpentine belt,
this is your belt diagram. You want it to follow this order as you put it back on the
pulleys. We’ll fast forward as Don does this. Again, if it doesn’t seem like it’s going
on right just refer to that belt diagram. Now, line up these tabs and push your power
steering bottle back down into place. Push the hose back into place and reclamp it. Then
replace those two T30 bolts and you’re all set. We hope this video helps you out. Brought
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