(whooshing) – Hey guys, Fuller here
with Custom Offsets. Custom Offsets TV on the YouTube. Coming back at you with another episode of From the Inbox. So, basically in this series
we answer the questions that you guys either
message us in our inbox, hit us up on the DMs on Instagram or drop comments on YouTube and Facebook. So, this time we’re gonna be going over can I tow with my lifted truck. So we’ve had a couple people ask questions relating to this, whether it be just having a taller truck, running taller wheels or
taller tires, I should say, wider wheels and how does
offset affect towing. So we’re kinda gonna dive into that and explain that more in detail. (serious music) (air drill buzzing) (metal clanking) (electricity buzzing) So, when you lift your
truck a couple things happen and a lot of this is really obvious, so I ‘m just gonna kind
of breeze through it. But obviously lifting your truck means your truck is now higher therefore you’ve also
raised up that center mass and so you have a higher
center of gravity. In addition to being up higher, by changing the geometry of your truck, you’re also gonna create more body role, so if you’re to turn left or right because you’re so much higher in the air and you have that higher center of gravity the chances of your truck
rolling or leaning to one side is gonna be greater than it was
when it was at stock height. So, when it comes to towing,
there’s a couple things that need to be addressed
when you do this. So if you have a regular
bumper pull trailer, you know, where you have a receiver, you put your hitch in and you
tow it behind your bumper. If you lift your truck up, say six inches, your receiver is now gonna
be six inches higher as well so you’re gonna want to get a drop hitch to compensate for that. Then keep in mind that the
bigger your drop hitch, you’re actually lowering
some of towing capacity just because it’s not
designed to be pulled from that low of an angle so you’re kind of changing
some of the geometry. Now, on like a six inch lifted truck that’s not really a big deal, you’re not losing that
much towing capacity so you’re pretty much fine by running with what the manufacture recommends. If you have a fifth wheel
or a gooseneck trailer, again, if you lift your
truck up that six inches, you’re lifting up the mounting point where your trailer’s gonna connect. So, if you don’t have an adjustable neck on your gooseneck trailer,
then your whole trailer’s gonna be sitting at a steeper angle and if you have your load unbalanced where more weight is to the rear, that can cause some stability
problems when towing. That’s when you’ll see the guys that their trailer’s sliding all over the road and that’s obviously not
something safe to do. ‘Cause you always want your load to be as level as possible. So truck, trailer, load,
all should be sitting level. So, on most gooseneck trailers,
they have adjustable necks so you’ll either be undoing bolts or pins, it kinda depends on what
style of trailer you have but you can raise up that gooseneck so one piece kind of
sits in another channel. You’re gonna be raising that up so that the mounting point comes up and you’re just gonna want
to make that sit flush with the bed of your truck so that you can pull that
trailer level like I mentioned. So, also when you’re installing
the lift kit on your truck, often times it’s gonna
come with new shocks or different shock or
different coil springs or different leaf springs, there’s a ton of different options when you’re buying lift kits. If you have questions on them, you can always shoot us an email to [email protected]
when you’re purchasing and our lift kit specialist, Brad, will be able to recommend
products that are best for you. So, in most cases, like I said, you’re swapping out shocks. So one of the questions that we get is will I notice any more
squat compared to stock. So I went out and watched a
couple of different videos, read on a lot of forums to see the comparisons between the
two and for the most part, a stock truck has some sort of rake to it and rake is when the front
sit lower than the rear, so it’s angled downward like this. They do that on purpose so
that when you add a load to the bed, you’re gonna
level out that truck. And on average, I would
say trucks usually squat about two inches with a mid sized load. A camper is a good example, something that, depending on size, is right between as low as 6,500 pounds up to 10,000 pounds depending
on what you’re pulling. But anywhere in there you’re getting about that two inches of drop. When upgraded to a different lift kit, a lot of times it’s blocks in the rear and you’re utilizing that stock suspension so it’s kinda the same thing, you’re really just taking
what your truck has and bringing it up. So, again, it’ll have some rake to it unless you have a torsion bar key set up and you crank that front up to raise it up or you use a smaller block in the rear so that it sits level without towing. You can still have some rake to the truck so if you do haul a
lot, you’re gonna wanna keep something similar
to that factory rake so that when you do load the bed it sits level again. So when it comes to towing, I think the biggest con of towing
with a lifted truck is the noticeable power loss. So, when people are lifting their trucks, obviously they’re usually doing it so they can put on larger wheels and tires and by having that larger tire, you’re affecting the final drive ratio of your vehicle. So, essentially, it requires more power and more revolutions of your driveshaft and your axles that in turn are gonna, you know, go through the whole system to then turn your wheels. So, if you have 37s, it’s
gonna take more effort to make one full revolution of that 37 than it would if you’re
making a full revolution of something smaller, you know, of like you’re stock
sized wheels and tires. So, by having those larger wheels, you do notice a power decrease even in regular driving. So now if you’re adding
a load behind your truck, like I said, whether you’re pulling a gooseneck or a car hauler or a camper or whatever you’re towing, any
noticeable weight back there is gonna slow you down significantly. As it would as if you had a stock truck but it’s more noticeable when
you have these lifted trucks. Not only because of the
larger diameter tires but also you do get more wind resistance and stuff like that because
as you’re bringing that truck up in the air and exposing
the suspension components there’s just more resistance. So one of the ways you can combat that is if you were to regear your truck, so you be affecting
those final drive ratios and get something that can
handle the power better. Along with regearing it,
you have to keep in mind if you have a four-wheel drive truck, you need to regear in both
the front and the rear. Obviously the two-wheel
drive, it’s just in the rear. Then you also are gonna
wanna get something that you can calibrate
your speedometer with because it can be off by
a couple of mile per hour with the larger wheels and tires but if you start changing your gearing you’re gonna notice that your
speedometer can get way off. So you’re gonna wanna buy a
calibrator to correct that. On the opposite end of the power loss, you also are going to have
more problems stopping. So whenever you add wheels and tires, you know, something large
to your lifted vehicle, you’re adding a lot more rolling mass which is something that greatly affects your stopping abilities. So if you still have your stock
pads, rotors and calipers, you’re gonna notice when you go to stop your newly lifted truck with
your bigger wheels on there that it takes longer to stop and it might take more
force on that brake pedal. Again, everything you do in your vehicle is then translated to what you’d be doing if you’re pulling a trailer. It’s just amplified that much more because you have that much extra mass behind your vehicle pushing it. So, obviously, if you’re
going to be hauling a heavy trailer, I’m
sure you already know, you should really have a brake controller to control the trailer brakes. If your trailer doesn’t
have trailer brakes, you just really want to pay attention so you’re slowing down well in advance because adding all that
force behind your truck pushing it as well as the rolling mass of your wheels and tire
is gonna greatly impact your ability to stop. Something really important to consider if you’re looking to tow
with your lifted vehicle is gonna be your tire selection. I, personally, take tires super seriously because it’s really the
only thing that connects your vehicle to the roadway, so it’s a very important
part of your vehicle. Now, one of the tires we recommend if you’re going to be
doing a lot of hauling is the Nitto Ridge Grappler and the reason why we recommend that is because it’s available
in an F load or a 12 ply. And they actually call it 12 ply rated because with today’s technology it might actually have only 10 plies but it’s just as strong as 12, there’s a whole bunch of tire science that goes into that we won’t dive into. We do have other videos on that
if you want to check it out you can always search our YouTube channel, it’s Youtube.com/customoffsetstv. So, like I said Nitto Ridge Grappler, that’s probably gonna be
the best tire out there if you do a lot of hauling. When you’re selecting your tires, it’s really important to pay
attention to your load index. So, typical on a 2500 HD, your stock tires are somewhere around a 118 load index. If you don’t completely
understand load index, you don’t really need to
know it for this video to understand my point but like I said, we also have other videos
on load index as well, you can type those in. But like I said, so 118
is the stock load index on a tire that comes with your vehicle when you purchase it from the dealership. So basically, that is the tire that the manufacture recommends
to get your max tow capacity out of that vehicle. So if you want to upgrade you tires or change to a different size because you bought new wheels and tires, then you’re gonna wanna
make sure you don’t go lower than whatever that load index is. But it can get kinda tricky. So, we had thought Nitto
Ridge Grapplers and F load, that’s probably good for everything but depending on what size tire you select it also can change the load index. So though it might be rated as an F load, the load index could be different. So if you compare a 33, 12.5, 22 to a 33, 12.5, 18 there’s gonna be some noticeable differences. Obviously the biggest
one that impacts towing is going to be the size of the sidewall. So, 22 inch wheel, 33 inch tire, you have a very thin sidewall whereas if you have an 18
inch wheel and a 33 inch tire, you have a lot more sidewall. So, on the 33, 12.5, R22 in
the Nitto Ridge Grappler, the load index is only a 114. So that’s gonna be lower than
what a 2500 comes with stock. So that’s only rated
for about 2,600 pounds whereas if you take the exact same tire and it’s still a 33 by 12.5
but it’s for an 18 inch wheel, the load index actually jumps up to 122. So that gives you plenty of
capacity for your vehicle if you’re gonna be doing hauling. That one’s good for up
to about 3,300 pounds I think it’s 3,305 so then you’re set, that covers everything that you need to. All that information
is right on our website if you’re shopping for
tires, you just scroll down. It’ll tell you the load range, so F load in this case
and what the load index is and then shows you exactly how many pounds that converts out to be good for. As far as wide wheels and
large, negative offset wheels and how they impact towing, it’s not so much about the
handling characteristics of the vehicle and how they tow but the stress that it puts on your truck. So, yes, wide wheels and tires
put more stress on your truck than having stock wheels
but that’s part of the game and most people just know that as a fact and accept it. It’s not like you’re replacing
ball joints every weekend or every time you use your vehicle. It’ll put more stress on there but not enough that it really is that bothersome to most people. Obviously a lot of the guys
here drive lifted trucks and most of us don’t
ever run into problems. So, the negative offset and the width, yes it impacts your truck,
but not as much when towing, it really just puts more stress on your front end
components like ball joints and you have to pay attention
to your CV angles and stuff when you’re building your truck. So, selecting a better
quality kit right off the bat is something that can help you with that. So, in conclusion, would
we recommend towing with a lifted vehicle? And the answer is, yeah, you
can tow with a lifted vehicle just fine, we have a couple guys here. I know Cody tows his boat
just about every weekend. Justin tows a, he’s got
an eight by 14 trailer that he tows almost every day as well as his 30 some foot camper that he tows on the weekends
with his Super Duty. That’s lifted, it’s got
a four inch PDS in it. Cody’s truck has a seven
and half inch Rough Country and that handles fine. Shawn, he’s got the white CO2,
with were just pulling around the Adventigar on a trailer for a bit and that was fine. So we don’t usually run
into issues with towing with a lifted vehicle, even the Hummer, it’s just leveled but it’s got really wide wheels and tire and again,
there’s no major problems. In all of those vehicles though, you definitely do notice a power loss because of those larger tires as well as just the added weight and then again, the power
loss as far as braking goes increase stopping distance on those too, since you’re just adding
that much more weight to it. So, can you do it, yes. Do we recommend it, yeah, I
think it’s perfectly fine to do. Is there anything that can help doing it, I guess selecting a quality lift kit right off the bat is important, making sure you’re able to
recalibrate your speedometer and then just keeping up on maintenance and making sure your
wheel barrings are good and your angles are
good and all that stuff and you should be perfectly fine to tow with your lifted truck. Oh, peace. (warning tone) (mimicking rock guitar) That was the guitar solo.